A girl needs help!!! [on Heel/Toe & Double-Clutch Technique]

[scatcat]

Next Sun. I am trying a 1/2 day racing at Bertil Roos. This is something I wanted to try for a while but reading the manual I am getting nervous. The whole down shifting thing is somewhat confusing. Is it easy to catch on? Any advice would be great. Please help!
Jessica

[J Goring]

i am not sure as to what style gearboxes Bertil Roos uses, so I can not give any good information. However, some advice I can give is go to Skip Barber

[scatcat]

Hi,
It's scandia f2000, 4cylinder, O.H.C engine & 4 speed hewland transmission.

[sydude]

Jessica, there are two new downshifting techniques that you will have to learn about to best your fellow students. Because the Hewland transmission has a 'non-syncromesh' transmission (more on that later), you will need to 'double-clutch' on downshifts. The second new technique is called 'Heel and Toe', and you'll need that to able to complete your downshifts smoothly while applying the brakes at the same time. There are some well presented tutorials on Wikipedia that describe both, and if you can get a chance to practice them before your school, you will have a nice jump start on your fellow classmates.

Here they are:

Double clutch

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

A double clutch (also called a double declutch) is a driving procedure used for vehicles with an unsynchronized manual transmission.

Before the introduction of synchronizers (1920s) and helical cut gears, double declutching was technique required to prevent damage to an automobile's gear system. Due to the difficulty involved in learning the technique, and because of the advent of synchonized gearing systems it has largely fallen into disuse. However, drivers of large trucks still use double clutching, as those vehicles are usually equipped with the older, more efficient, and more durable unsynchronized gearboxes.

The purpose of the double clutch is to match the speed of the rotating parts of the gearbox for the gear you wish to select to the speed of the input shaft being driven by the engine. Once the speeds are matched, the gear will engage smoothly. If the speeds are not matched, the dog teeth on the collar will "crash" or grate as they attempt to fit into the holes on the desired gear. A modern synchromesh gearbox accomplishes this synchronization automatically.

When shifting up on a double-clutched vehicle, the clutch pedal is pressed, the throttle is released, and gearbox shifted into neutral. The clutch pedal is then released. As the engine idles with no load, the rpms will decrease until they are at a level suitable for shifting into the next gear. The driver then depresses the clutch again and shifts into the next gear. The whole maneuver can, with practice, take no more than a fraction of a second, and the result is a very smooth gear change

However, in order to downshift, engine revs must be increased while the gearbox is in neutral and the clutch is engaged. This requires the driver to shift into neutral, release the clutch pedal, apply throttle to bring the revs up to a suitable speed, depress the clutch again, and finally shift into gear. This operation can be very difficult to master, as it requires the driver to gauge the speed of the vehicle accurately and is often conducted as cars in front slow down.

A related technique is called Heel-and-Toe, during which the brake and accelerator pedal are pressed by the right foot while the clutch pedal is pressed by the left foot. Note that Heel-and-Toe can be used with any downshift clutch operation, not just with double-clutching. Though difficult, mastering Heel-and-Toe in conjunction with Double Clutching is essential for high performance driving (e.g., Rallying) where straight-cut gearboxes are often used (straight-cut gears are often more durable than helical cut gears).

and;

Heel-and-toe

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Heel-and-toe is a driving technique used in performance driving. It involves operating the accelerator and brake pedals simultaneously with the right foot, while facilitating normal activation of the clutch with the left foot. It is used when braking and downshifting simultaneously (like when going around a turn), and allows the driver to "blip" the throttle to raise the engine speed and smoothly engage the lower gear.

Heel and toe braking has the following steps:

1) Brake with the ball (left edge) of your right foot while the car is in gear
2) Disengage (press) the clutch once the car has slowed down significantly (if double clutching, shift to the neutral position and engage the clutch)
3) Blip the throttle to match the engine rpm to the rpm needed for the selected gear using either the heel or the right edge of your right foot
4) Shift the gear lever to correct gear (disengage the clutch first if double clutching)
5) Engage the clutch, release the brake and roll your foot onto the accelerator

Heel-and-toe is used before entry into a turn while a vehicle is under braking, preparing the transmission to be in the optimal gear to accelerate out of the turn. One benefit of downshifting before entering a turn is a jolt to the drivetrain, or any other unwanted dynamics, will not upset the vehicle as badly when going in a straight line; the same jolt while turning may upset the vehicle enough to cause loss of control if it occurs after the turn is begun. Another benefit is "heel-and-toeing" allows you to downshift at the last moment before entering the turn, after you have started braking and the car has slowed, so the engine speed when the lower gear is engaged will not be too high.

Performance vehicles are usually modified (if necessary) so that the heights of the brake and accelerator pedals are closely matched to permit easy use of heel-and-toe, and that the pedals are not too far apart.

The name, stemming from earlier automotive designs where the accelerator pedal was on the left and could be actuated with the heel while the brake pedal was actuated with the toe, is misleading regarding how the technique is carried out in modern cars, i.e., operating the brake with the left edge of the foot, while rocking it down and to the right to operate the throttle. With practice, it becomes possible to smoothly and independently operate both pedals with one foot. The technique is common in all forms of motorsport, especially rallying.

An unrelated technique, called left-foot braking should not be confused with heel-and-toe.

Have fun at your school!

[scatcat]

Thank you! I will practice on my Audi. Hope I don't hurt it!

[sydude]

I suggest that you try to learn both techniques separately at first. When you are able to do a double clutch quickly and accurately, you can start blending the two techniques together. So at first, do your heel-toes with a regular single clutch.


BTW, there's a good set of diagrams on turnfast.com that visually explain the heel-toe technique:

The downshift begins with a full throttle acceleration towards a corner.



Lift the right foot from the gas pedal and press the brake pedal.



Just before the braking is done, the left foot depresses the clutch pedal.

The right hand begins the downshift.

The right foot is still applying, but easing up on the brake pressure as the car approaches the turn-in,
then the foot rotates so the heel is above the corner of the gas pedal.

As the shift passes through neutral, the right heel gives a quick push of the gas pedal
to rev the engine quickly (the ball of the foot is still on the brake easing up even more).



The left foot releases the clutch, the right foot rotates off the gas. Done correctly the RPMs generated
by the throttle blip above matches the RPMs needed, and as the clutch is released the engine engages
smoothly with the current wheel speed. There should be no forward or braking lurch
when the clutch is let go.



The right foot completes the braking with a smooth release.



The right foot moves over to the gas pedal to assume the normal position at first only to maintain
the pressure needed to sustain the vehicle speed throught the first part of the corner.
Then pressure is gradually applied to accelerate out of the turn.

[dalyduo]

Nicely done gentlemen.

[thomas]

Scatcat,
Dont get nervous about it. I recommend buying a copy of the Skip Barber "Going Faster", which is pretty much the college text book of the Skip Barber school, and I had read the book cover to cover before I did my three day and felt fine; it goes over double clutching as well. Double clutching is easier than it sounds so dont worry. The Scandia F2000 is a fun car to drive as well, I sure loved it.

If the instructor 'Steve' is there, skinny with curly black hair, make sure and tell him Thomas from VIR 2 day comp says hello.

[Jim Pace]

Jessica,
All the above is great information. I would add to allow plenty of time (i.e. brake early) approaching the corner to perform this new technique. Once your hands & feet have learned the timing & motions it is then much easier to condense the brake zone and still accomplish all you need to before the turn. Meaning be in gear before you turn. The most common mistake early on is to brake to late and not have enough time for the technique which leads to drama.
So...here you go.
Brake and continue to brake, Clutch IN, Neutral, Clutch Out, Blip throtle (Heel & toe) Clutch IN, Downshift, Clutch Out, ...continue Braking the entire time
If you can commit this "diddy" to memory and practice it as slowly as a good Southerner would say it, you will be ahead of the curve in your school.
Good luck,
Jim Pace

[scatcat]

Thank you all for your help. I knew I came to the right place. Thomas, if Steve is there I'll tell him you said, "hello".
Jessica

[scatcat]

Hi guys,
Went out practicing for a little bit. A couple of questions (sorry if I should know the answers). On the scandia f2000 are the gas & brake even height to do heel toe? Kinda hard to try in my car but I am trying to at least get the method down. Should I be light, medium or hard on brake? Blip throtle just means gas and brake ie heel toe.

Once again, thank you for the responses they have been very helpful. Still a little anxious that I am not going to catch on but I am sure the teachers there are very good.

I'll let you all know how I do.

Jessica

[thomas]

jessica, the f2000 car has perfect pedal arrangement for heel-toeing, and the seat can be adjusted as well. It is a perfect car, wonderfully balanced at the limit. You should always brake at 100%, unless you are trail braking, which is not what they teach at BR. At BR, they teach, full brakes, full gas, full time, which is good for only SOME corners. I personally found I dont think I was ususing 100% of the cars braking capability, and it can take a lot.....brake hard.
Another problem I had was the 2-3 upshift, i lost the lead in the 2-day race by sticking it in 1st. You cannot go diagonally, it must be forward-over-forward. Other than that, upshifts are as quick as you can stab the clutch and move the gear lever. I loved the car, i loved the school..have fun. Any questions, just pm me.
thomas

[Jim Pace]

Jessica,
The pedals in the f2000 should be acceptable for "heel & toe". The idea is initially the brake pedal is closer to you than the gas pedal so when the brake pedal moves down under the force of your foot the brake is now closer to the gas pedal which allows you to rev the engine (known as a blip) with the gas pedal while holding steady pressure on the brake pedal.
Again you should try this technique while braking early with lite pressure to give your self time to get it done.

PRINT the diagram posted earlier regarding placement of the feet on the pedals at each step.
PRINT the simple version of the steps: BRAKE-CLUTCH IN-NEUTRAL-CLUTCH OUT-BLIP-CLUTCH IN-DOWNSHIFT-CLUTCH OUT!

Sit and practice moving your feet and hands to the above. (A chair works fine, car is good, racecar is best but expensive).
Do this slowly, reading it while you go through the motions. Just like learning to drive the upshifting part of a stick shift for the first time it takes practice doing it correctly.

Once you have the motions it will become much more natural.
***Always good to practice in someone elses' car***
JP

[999]

Originally Posted by thomas

You should always brake at 100%, unless you are trail braking,

I'm not sure this is accurate advice. Brake pressure depends on a variety of factors. My experience is that 100% is in fact rarely required. The instructors will help you determine what is necessary in the school and how to figure out what is necessary in the future.

[PT Cruiser]

Originally Posted by scatcat

Hi guys,
Went out practicing for a little bit. A couple of questions (sorry if I should know the answers). On the scandia f2000 are the gas & brake even height to do heel toe? Kinda hard to try in my car but I am trying to at least get the method down. Should I be light, medium or hard on brake? Blip throtle just means gas and brake ie heel toe.
Jessica

When you downshift in a race car, you will quite often be braking quite hard --almost panic stop level compared to what you are used to in normal road driving. When practing this technique in your road car, however, it is best to brake quite a bit more gently-- otherwise, you may well get rear ended by the driver behind you.

Most road cars are not well set up for heel toe downshifting. When you first get in the F2000, it will feel like you have no room to move your feet at all. But eventually, you'll find that the confined spacing of the pedals is actually a big advantage when it comes to heel toeing.

One other note. Sy's diagrams suggest that the gas pedal is actual depressed by the heel of the right foot. In my experience, one actually uses the right side of the foot, about a third of the way down from the toes, and just kind of roll the foot quickly onto the gas to get the blip. At first it is tricky pulling off this motion without altering pressure on the brake pressure, but after some practice it becomes completely automatic.

Good luck, and enjoy the school.

[scatcat]

Hello,
I am glad the advice is still rolling in. Thanks Jim, little diddy has come in handy. The most I can do is sit in my chair and practice and hope that it comes together for me on the track.

[GEORGE]

The whole heel and toe, and double clutching thing is so much like dancing. At first it seems so foreign and then you will drive your road car the same way. This is much like riding a bike, you just want to keep it going ang going

[John Greist]

So ScatCat, what happened?

[scatcat]

Hi guys ,
Thank you to all of you who responded. Your advice worked wonders. It was nice to have a place to vent my worries. Enough girlie talk.
That was the best freaking thing I have ever done! My face hurts from smiling. I did great and had a blast. Man, I wish I was rich!

[John Greist]

That was the best freaking thing I have ever done! My face hurts from smiling. I did great and had a blast. Man, I wish I was rich!
[/quote]

One Skip Barber racer raised money for racing by robbing a bank. Worked for a while, but not recommended.

[LimeRockRacer]

You have officially been bitten and are terminally afflicted with racing in your blood. Congrats!

[Zach Ply]

If you own a standard transmission car as your daily driver you can easily teach your self the basics of heal/toe downshifting. It dosent even have to be under hard breaking to learn. Then you can take what you practiced over and over and put it into use in a race car.

[Vin]

When I teach students how to Heal and Toe in Formula Campus, I only teach them to single clutch. I'd say you don't need to double clutch in modern cars unless you are bored. Actually, you don't really even need to use the clutch, but that comes later. One of the Formula Renault racing schools here only teaches Left Foot Braking since it takes too much time to teach Heal Toe Downshifts! Of course the Formula Renault as a bullet proof gear box.

I teach how to Heal and Toe in 3 Simple Steps (easier said than done I know)!

1 - Brake Hard

2 - Left Foot = Push Clutch
Right Foot = Continue Braking and Blip Throttle
Right Hand = Down Shift One Gear
(All three things done at the same time)

3 - Release all except Brake. Continue Braking. Go back to Step 2 if you need to downshift another gear.

Step 2 and the "Release" is done very quick. Step 1 is done for some time, as you need to slow the car down before down shifting.

The hardest part I see for the students is maintaining the Brake Pressure during Step 2 and on to Step 3.

Next lesson, forget the clutch!! Of course, make sure you have a fat wallet just in case you make a little mistake!!

Have a happy. . .
Vinay

[Juicyfan]

Vinay is right that the clutch isn't needed in a car like FRenault or F3 (even FBMW, although I have heard of some people using the clutch for downshifts to make the car last the season.) However, for Skip Barber, or Bertil Roos, the car's probably need the clutch. I would recommend Vinay's method of single-clutch-down-a-gear-while-blipping (did you catch that) method. I've never used double clutching in a race car.